PERPIGNAN, France ?A few months ago Isidore Santamaria went out into his picturesque vineyard in southwestern France and ripped row upon row of neatly cultivated vines out of the ground.

• 几个月前，伊斯多?桑塔马利亚走进他在法国西南部如画般的葡萄园，将种得整整齐齐的葡萄树，一排排从土??洫?_。